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S.A. Prüm 'Graacher Domprobst GG' Riesling 2017
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Description
The Grosse Gewächs (GG) designation is Germany's equivalent of a Grand Cru: dry wines from the highest-classified vineyard sites, the top tier of the VDP classification system. The Graacher Domprobst is one of the Mosel's three VDP Grosse Lage sites in Graach, a southwest-facing slope above the village with blue-gray Devonian clay-slate soils rising from 110 to 260 meters. The 2017 vintage was shaped by spring frost, summer hail, and a grueling harvest that cut yields by 30 to 40 percent across the Mosel. The result at the top estates was exceptional concentration. This wine is the summit of the S.A. Prüm flight.
Quick Facts
- Producer: Weingut S.A. Prüm
- Region: Mosel, Germany
- Appellation: VDP Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) Grosse Gewächs
- Vineyard: Graacher Domprobst
- Grape: 100% Riesling
- Style: Dry (Trocken)
- Soil: Blue-gray Devonian slate with clay
- Vintage: 2017
- Vineyard Holdings: 2.5 of 47 total acres; 45 to 65% slope gradient
Tasting Profile
Color: Vibrant gold with developing amber at the rim.
Nose: Complex and layered, with ripe peach, mango, passion fruit, quince, and a foundation of wet slate and mineral. Earthy, herbaceous undertones are consistent with Domprobst's gray and blue slate character. After several years in bottle, the wine has developed secondary notes of honey, almond, and dried citrus.
Palate: Full-bodied and refined, with concentrated stone fruit driving through a silky, textured mid-palate. Firm acidity keeps the wine structured and focused. The finish is long, with a saline, slate mineral quality that lingers. Rich cream-textured weight without any heaviness.
Why We Love It
This is a Grosse Gewächs from one of the Mosel's most storied sites in one of its most unlikely great vintages. The 2017 growing season was defined by hardship: April frost, a Graach-area hailstorm in August, botrytis pressure in September. Producers who made the right calls at harvest were rewarded with concentration that would not have been achievable in a more comfortable year. At eight years of age, this wine is hitting a beautiful window where the primary fruit has integrated with emerging complexity. There is still structure to carry it forward, but it is drinking with real harmony now. If you have been curious about what Mosel GG is all about, this is the bottle that explains it.
Winemaking
Fermentation in stainless steel tanks over four months, aged sur lie with additional time in old oak before bottling. Strict selection at harvest due to the challenging 2017 vintage conditions, with meticulous sorting required throughout the picking period. S.A. Prüm holds 2.5 acres within the Domprobst, with vines at 45 to 65 percent gradient on southwest-facing slopes.
Serving and Pairing
Serve at 55 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit. The wine's weight and richness call for equally serious food. Outstanding with duck, goose, veal, venison, and turkey. Rich seafood preparations, particularly lobster and monkfish, are excellent matches. The wine also holds up to cream-sauce dishes and savory preparations with earthy mushrooms or truffle. Strong cheeses, including well-aged blues, are a natural pairing with the 2017's mineral spine.
Drinking Window
Drinking beautifully now through 2032 and beyond. At eight years of age in 2025, the wine is in an ideal window: primary fruit has softened, secondary complexity is present, and the underlying structure still supports further development. Cellar-worthy for guests with patience.
Estate Overview
S.A. Prüm is a founding member of the VDP and one of the Mosel's most recognizable estates, with a family history tracing back to 1156. The winery was formally established in 1911 by Sebastian Alois Prüm. Raimund Prüm expanded the estate significantly from the 1970s onward, building the estate's reputation in premium single-vineyard wines across Wehlen, Graach, and Bernkastel. In 2017, ownership passed to his daughter Saskia Prüm, the first woman in the family's history to lead the estate. S.A. Prüm farms all vineyards using organic methods, hand harvesting across steeply terraced sites with yields strictly controlled for quality.
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